Wednesday, 16 April 2014

Levers Arms Hotel, Nelson Square/Bowkers Row




A shot of the north side of Nelson Square, probably taken in the 1920s. The row in the background, behind Samuel Crompton’s statue, contained the Levers Arms Hotel at the top end with the Pack Horse at the bottom end and appears to have a number of other properties in between, probably shops. Compare it to the 2012 image further down the page.





The Levers Arms Hotel – not to be confused with the Lever Arms in Darcy Lever - was situated at the top end of Nelson Square on the corner of Bowker’s Row and was demolished in 1949 to make way for an extension to the Pack Horse Hotel.

The pub was built in the early part of the nineteenth century. In Leisure In Bolton, 1750-1900, Robert Poole claims the Levers Arms was the scene of balls for ‘tradesmen and bachelors’ which were organised by the landlord ‘circa 1824’. However, Mr Poole is perhaps a few years out.

An article in the Bolton Evening News of 17 April 1880 gave the story behind the pub's construction. The article was written on the death of Mr James Simcock, a master builder who constructed the building in 1826. Mr Simcock was a native of Frodsham in Cheshire and he came to Bolton in 1823 along with his father, a master builder who set up in business in the town. The Simcocks soon won a number of large contracts including, in 1826, one for a building on the corner of Nelson Square and Bowker's Row which was originally planned as a townhouse for a surgeon, Mr Robinson. It was apparently the only house built in Bolton that year such was the depressed nature of the local economy and was constructed using 40,000 bricks. However, the building was soon sold and split in two with the Borough court (later the Reform Club) in one part of the building and the Levers Arms Hotel in the other. This would have been around 1830.

The pub was also known by the nickname of the Cock and Trumpet which derived from the ancient cock and bugle crest used by the Lever families of Great Lever, Little Lever and Darcy Lever since the Middle Ages and which still forms part of the crest of Bolton School.

In 1834. the pub's occupant, Mr W Bennett, advertised it as being to let. “This inn is placed in a part of town highly calculated for carrying on a respectable line of business,” he claimed in an advertisement in the Manchester Courier of 28 June 1834 adding that the house “would be found highly accommodating to private gentlemen or commercial travellers as there is most excellent stabling attached to the premises.”

Mr Bennett moved to the Ship Inn on Bradshawgate, and he was succeeded at the Levers Arms by Martin Mascall. Mr Mascall was a young man – just 23 – when he moved to the pub and he took no time in consolidating the Levers Arms as the hostelry of choice for Bolton's establishment. The town's courts were immediately next door, the streets immediately surrounding the Levers Arms were offices for professionals such as accountants, solicitors and merchants. Bolton Mechanics Institute met at the pub, the local Philharmonic Society held concerts there, the Bolton Cattle Show used the pub as a registration point for entries and the council even used a room at the pub for meetings.

Martin Mascall was a keen horseman. He regularly put on a refreshment hut at Horwich races and allowed the Levers Arms to be used as a stud when touring stallions were brought to Bolton.

However, Mascall fell foul of the law in 1840 when he was accused of having more than eight gallons of rum on the premises. It was illegal for pubs to overstock on spirits, the feeling being they could then be classed as wholesalers rather than retailers. Mascall claimed it was an error on the part of his bookkeeper but rather than fine him the magistrates ordered excise officials to confiscate the rum.

Martin Mascall left in 1842 and in 1845 the Levers Arms was taken over by Alfred Bird. Mr Bird started his career as a clerk for the local wholesale brewery of Newstead and Walker before working briefly for the Hulton Colliery Company based at their offices next to the Great Moor Street railway station. He then got into the pub trade at the Bulls Head (now Yates's Wine Lodge) on Bradshawgate.  



Mr Bird was eligible to vote, but the decision by his immediate predecessor as licensee, Mrs Colley, to remain on the premises for a few days after his arrival as she sorted out alternative accommodation almost cost him that vote. In order to vote you either had to own a property or a business and one's eligibility – or otherwise – would come in front of the Municipal Revision Court. Mr Bird argued that his removal from the Bulls Head to the Levers Arms ought not to disqualify him from voting and despite being only a tenant of the pub and not the owner he was allowed to keep his vote.

Alfred Bird was back in court again in February 1846. A servant girl named Mary Ann Haymes was accused of stealing a broach, gloves and other articles from the pub. Miss Haymes had left the Lever Arms the previous September after which the articles were noticed as missing. Sergeant Beech of the local police went to her home and found the articles in her box. Surprisingly, there was an appeal by Mr Bird for clemency. He said that as Miss Haymes was connected with a very respectable family and that it was her first offence he didn't want to press charges and the case was dismissed. [Bolton Chronicle, 7 February 1846]

In August 1860, the opening of St Edmund's Roman Catholic Church was celebrated with a meal at the Levers Arms. It was the fourth Catholic church to open in the town and followed the laying of the cornerstone of St Patrick's just five months earlier. The church was situated on Grime Street (now St Edmunds Street) off Deansgate. The street's original name was apt. In a report on the opening of the church in its issue of 18 August 1860, the Bolton Chronicle stated that area was:

“a very populous area of the town, and the haunt of the worst characters of both sexes. A place more thoroughly destitute, in a spiritual point of view, it would be difficult to conceive.”

At two o'clock, and with the opening ceremony completed, members of the clergy and the laity, along with various civic dignitaries for what was described as “an elegant repast”.

In 1868, a court case was brought by customs and excise against the Levers Arms and in particular against its tap room. Taps – or vaults – were separate rooms gained via a separate entrance. In effect it was completely cut off from the main part of the pub and catered for a lower class of drinker. Having a tap managed to broadened a pub's appeal while keeping different classes of drinker completely separate from each other. The Levers was one of two pubs brought up in front of court with the police arguing that as they were effectively separate pubs they ought to have a separate licence. The other pub was the Swan Hotel tap room, an establishment that still exists though not by that name. It was known as the Malt and Hops Bar from the mid-seventies and after a refurbishment in 1992 it became Barristers Bar which it remains as to this day.

Interestingly, it wasn't Alfred Bird, the Levers Arms landlord, who was in the dock, rather Francis Cooper and his wife Martha. The court heard that the tap was entered via a separate entrance on Bowkers Row – the main pub was on Nelson Square. The Coopers sub-let the tap room from Alfred Bird but the excise officers' case was strengthened by them buying spirits and beer from sources completely separate to Bird. One of the excise officers, Richard Solomon, visited the premises of 11 April 1868. In a conversation with Mrs Cooper she revealed that while she and her husband considered themselves to be servants of Mr Bird they had occupied the tap for 12 years. Mr Bird admitted that he could dismiss them but the court took the view that this was an agreement between landlord and tenants rather than master and servant. The Coopers were hit with a huge fine of £17 10 shillings. The tap subsequently obtained a separate licence but the Coopers left the following year. Robert Darlington of the Swan Tap was also found guilty and fined £5.

In 1869, the Levers Arms was extended into part of the living accommodation occupied by a veterinary surgeon, Roger Hampson. This was part of the original building and Bird created a number of bedrooms in the extension.

While the Levers Arms was always seen as a pub of the local establishment it was particularly popular with senior members of the Conservative party. At the 1869 municipal elections the two victorious Conservative councillors in the West ward were carried shoulder high in celebration to the Levers Arms from the count at St George's school at the top of Bath Street (a building that became a pub named BenTopps in the 1980s).

The Levers was absent from local press reports of the time of illegal opening. Perhaps it was because of this connection with the local elite. On the other hand, most offences of that nature took place on a Sunday morning when the establishment would have been at prayer in their private pews at the Parish Church.

However, a spotlight was thrown on to the Levers Arms in December 1871 when Alfred Bird was in court for having his house open at two o'clock one Friday morning. Police Sergeant Bailey and Police Constable Whittle walked in to the pub by the outer door which had been left unlocked. Five men were in the room at least three of which Sergeant Bailey recognised as not being hotel guests. Such guests were allowed to drink after closing time. Glasses of spirits and beer were on the tables and one of the gentlemen bought a cigar from Mrs Bird for which he paid sixpence. Alfred Bird did not appear in court nor was he represented and he was fined 40 shillings. But the case rang a bell at the nearby offices of the Bolton Evening News. The paper had been founded around the corner in Mawdsley Street just four years earlier and was still very much the 'new kid on the block'. But while the long-established weekly paper, the Bolton Chronicle, was a strong supporter of the Conservatives newspaper, the Evening News' founder William Tillotson was a staunch Liberal. Indeed, in the same election that the Tories triumphantly chaired their successful candidates in West ward to the Levers Arms, Tillotson was licking his wounds having been come in third place in Exchange ward behind two elected Conservatives. The BEN had recently appointed William F Brimelow as editor, a post he would hold for the next 42 years, and it came to Brimelow's attention that while Bird had been fined for keeping unlawful hours at the Levers Arms there had been no mention of the gentlemen drinking in the pub. Not only was it an offence to keep a pub open outside licensing hours, it was now an offence to drink in one – it hadn't been previously. Bird was fined but what had happened to the local dignitaries?

“If Dick, Tom and Harry induce some unfortunate common publican to supply them with beer within prohibited hours they are summoned along with him; and the public see no reason why any distinction should be made in favour of the 'gentlemen' who had done a similar thing at the Levers Arms,” Brimelow thundered in an editorial on 13 December 1871. He added that justice had been done but in a side-room at the court instead of in public. Three of the offending gentlemen had all received a fine but the BEN's reporter was barred from entry to the proceedings.

“If the defendants had been operative mechanics, spinners or labourers, their cases would have been heard in open court, their names inserted in the charge sheet, and the press would have published them to the world,” Brimelow continued. “But, with gentlemen belonging to the 'professions,' this would of course have been an inconvenient exposure. Yes, if this sort of thing were to pass, we want to know what the answer will be to those who say – and there are many saying it just now - “there is one law for the rich and another law for the poor””.

Alfred Bird died in April 1873 having been landlord of the Levers Arms for 28 years. He had been suffering from dropsy for some months leading up to his death. Running the pub that was the choice of the local establishment hadn't made him a rich man – he left less than £100 in his estate. Bird never owned the pub, he was merely a tenant. But given the fate of the pub over the next 20 or 30 years it seems that its glory days had already gone.

Bird's widow, Eliza Bird, took over the running of the Levers Arms but it was sold in December 1873 and she left for the Victoria Hotel in Hotel Street when her tenancy expired in 1874. Her son Harry Bird opened a veterinary surgery in part of the premises but that lasted only a few months until his death at the age of 27 in November 1874.

Thomas Cooper succeeded Mrs Bird but he left in 1876 after buying the Church Hotel in Kearsley for £4650. He returned to the Levers Arms in 1882 but was declared bankrupt later that year.

The Levers Arms was sold again in 1876, this time to a Mr Nava who moved from the Queens Head in Alderley Edge. He was very much a 'hands-on' owner and took over the day-to-day running of the pub. His brief tenure was notable for the opening of a new billiards room.

Nava sold up at the end of 1878 to a Mr George Parnell who ended up in something of a local scandal. Parnell and his wife Anne ran the pub for little more than a year, but she left him and sued for divorce in a case that was heard in 1881. Mrs Parnell claimed in court they had bought the hotel with her money but that her husband was prone to “bouts of intemperance”- in other words, he liked a drink. She also alleged he began an adulterous affair with a chambermaid at the hotel, Alice Craven, which was corroborated in court by Ms Craven. Mrs Parnell was granted a decree nisi thereby ending the marriage.

Certainly, the 1880s were troubled times for the Levers Arms. The Conservatives now had their own club on Mawdsley Street in part of the recently-constructed Bradford Buildings (the club is now closed but its former entrance can still be seen). The Bradford Buildings still stand and are chiefly known for the Level nightclub (previously J2, Sparrows, Sundowners and Cellar Vie) which occupies much of the row.

Mary Scowcroft took over the running of the Levers Arms in 1884 but within six years she was at the bankruptcy court, the pub having run into financial difficulties. It wasn't the final appearance at that court of the pub's licensee. In 1901, Thomas Kay was declared bankrupt having also run into trouble during his tenure. He had managed to increase trade from £17 a week to £30 but still found the business a drain on his resources.

However, the early part of the twentieth-century found some stability for the Levers Arms largely due to the tenure of two landladies: Margaret Simpkin who ran the pub from 1901 to 1910 and Elizabeth Smith who was in charge for over a decade thereafter.

But there was activity further down Nelson Square after the second world war. Local brewers Magee Marshall owned the Pack Horse Hotel which began life in the eighteenth century as a small inn fronting Bradshawgate, It was rebuilt in 1904, but in the late-forties Magees began snapping up all the properties in between the Pack Horse and the Levers Arms. Their aim was to expand the Pack Horse into all those properties with the aim of making it one of Bolton's leading hotel.

In 1949 Magee’s bought the Levers Arms Hotel and demolished it in December of that year as part of an extensive remodelling of the Pack Horse that gave the building the structure that pretty much stands today. The extended hotel was opened in August 1952.

In the eighties and nineties that part of the Hotel formerly occupied by the Levers Arms became the Regency Lounge and later the Shawgates Café Bar. An Italian restaurant, La Piazza opened in 2016 but closed in 2018. The Pack Horse closed as a hotel in 2009 and was converted into student accommodation which opened in September 2012.

In September 2018, the Northern Monkey brewpub opened on the site of what would have been the Levers Arms.

“Edward Mascall was charged with assaulting Peter Orme, on the 10th of May, on which day it appeared Mr Blain, tailor and draper, had a gig from Mr Martin Mascall, defendant's brother, to Preston. He returned between nine and ten in the evening and sent the horse and gig by the defendant to Mr Mascall's the Lever Arms Hotel. Complainant and a companion got into the gig and drove round by Trinity Church and to other places, and kept the horse and gig nearly an hour. Defendant got information of this, and having care of his brother's horses he found the complainant in the Lever Arms, and seizing him by the collar, accused him of abusing the horse and struck him a violent blow on the face and on other parts of the body. The parties were separated and Orme went home, but soon afterwards went back to the stables to remonstrate with defendant for striking him and to explain. The defendant then attacked Orme in the stable and beat him so severely that he was confined to his bed six days and at one time his life appeared to be in danger......Mr Fletcher [magistrate] said the complainant deserved a good thrashing for the driving the horse about town after the animal had performed a journey of forty miles that day....He thought however that the complainant had beaten him with unnecessary severity and he should therefore require him to find sureties to keep the peace for three months and to pay the costs.”


Bolton Chronicle, 6 June 1835.

This article was completely re-written on 10 August 2019.

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